Mounting electrical box to brick wall

How to Install a Receptacle in a Brick Wall

Metallic boxes can be used with either nonmetallic Type NM-B or metallic sheathed electrical cable. Nonmetallic plastic boxes are designed for use only with nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable. An old work box is designed to be installed after-the-fact—on walls that are already finished. They are often used in situations where you are adding outlets or extending an existing circuit in a room that is already finished. Because these situations don't allow you the opportunity to attach the box directly to studs, these boxes need a different means of anchoring.

Once the box is inserted into the wall cutout and the screws are tightened, the rear retention tabs open up and draw up tight against the back of the drywall or plaster, while mounting ears on the front of the box press against the front face of the wall.

The front ears and back retention tabs "pinch" the box tightly in place against the wall surface. The screw that goes into the retention tab on the box may sometimes be very tight when the box comes from the manufacturer. This effectively precuts the threads in the plastic retention tab, making the screw easier to turn later when you are actually securing the box in the wall.

After the screw is drawn up slightly, back the screw out to allow the retention tab to go back into its original folded position. Old work electrical boxes made from PVC use an integrated quick-clamping system to hold the nonmetallic NM-B cable to the box.

This will loosen the clamp and make it easier to insert the cable. The first step in installing an old work electrical box is to create the wall cutout.

Position the electrical box backward against the wall, in the exact position you plan to install it. Take a pencil and trace the outline of the box on the wall. Note: Some styles of boxes may require you to enlarge the hole slightly at the point where the retention tabs are located. If so, this will become apparent when you try to slide the box into the wall. Using a drywall keyhole saw, carefully cut the hole along the traced outline and remove the drywall blank.

A sharp blow on the heel of the saw will usually cause the blade to puncture the drywall so you can begin cutting. For plaster, you can drill an access hole in the cutout area to provide space to insert the saw blade.

If the new outlet is a simple circuit extension, there will likely be just one cable running from the last outlet location to the new box location. More complicated wiring scenarios may call for two cables. Make sure the new lengths of cable are sized appropriately for the amperage of the circuit. Run cables to the new box location.

There should be 8 to 12 inches of excess cable at the new wall opening. At this point, the new cable should be unattached to any electrical devices. If the cable is already connected on the source side of the circuit, make sure the circuit breaker supplying power to it has been shut off at the main service panel. Before feeding the cable into the old work box, use a cable stripper to remove about 6 inches of the outer vinyl sheathing from the NM-B cable, exposing the conductors and the ground wire.

If you don't have a cable stripper, This can also be done by taking a sharp utility knife or razor blade and slicing the sheathing PARALLEL to the wires, being careful not to slice the insulators.

Carefully cut the sheathing off. Make sure to leave about 6 to 7 inches of exposed wires. Next, simply place the old work electrical box into the hole in the wall. Hold the box so the mounting ears on the front of the box are tight against the front of the drywall while you tighten the two retention screws.The wiring for any type of electrical fixture must be enclosed inside an electrical box, and that box is hidden inside a conventional wall.

It usually isn't practical to dig out a hole for an electric box in a brick wall, however, and even if it were, the question of how to run the wires would still remain. There are two solutions. One is to mount fixtures and wiring in surface-mount boxes and conduit. The other is to drill a hole through the wall so you can run the wiring and mount the boxes on the reverse side.

Nail an electrical box to the drywall framing behind the wall so that the knock-out hole in the back of the box lines up with the hole you drilled in the brick. The front of the box should be flush with the surface of the drywall.

Marshall footswitch diagram diagram base website footswitch

Position the lamp you want to install over the hole and adjust it to the orientation you prefer. Mark the positions of the screw holes on the base of the fixture on the brick, then remove the lamp. Drill a hole into the brick with a masonry bit on each mark and tap a conical plastic anchor into each hole. Replace the light fixture, after first feeding the wires through the central hole, and drive screws into the anchors to hold the fixture to the wall.

Caulk around the base of the fixture with silicone caulk. Run wires from the power source to the electrical box. Turn off the power and connect them to the fixture wires inside the box. When the wiring is complete, cover the box with a removable plate. Position a surface-mount electrical box on the wall at the location of the fixture and mark the positions of the screw holes on the back. Remove the box and drill a hole into the brick on each mark with a masonry bit. Tap a conical screw anchor into each hole, replace the box and affix it to the wall by driving a screw into each anchor.

Plan the path of the wiring and knock out the hole in the side of the box that faces in that direction with a hammer and screwdriver.

Assemble a length of conduit that extends from the box to the nearest access point for the wires, which may be near the floor or ceiling or may be next to a door or window. Feed electrical wire through the conduit and into the electrical box, then attach the conduit to the box with a screw-on coupling. Terminate the other end of the conduit with an appropriate fitting.

How to compare two files

A degree elbow that extends through a hole in the wall often works. Anchor the conduit to the wall with pipe clamps. Affix the clamps by drilling holes, setting conical anchors into the holes and driving the screws into the anchors. Screw the mounting bar that came with the light fixture to the electrical box.Electrical junction boxes are metal or plastic enclosures in which electric wires meet and join together.

Electrical junction boxes need to be attached to a variety of base materials such as concrete, brick or block. Different types of anchors are available, the anchor chosen will depend on the specific application and user preference. Most electrical junction box applications require that the concrete fastener does not protrude into the box and have a finished or smaller head to allow more space in the junction box as well as to eliminate a snag point for the electrical wires.

They are the most versatile type of concrete fastener for this type of application because they work equally well regardless of the material, have consistent holding values and have a high installation success rate. The hex head anchor works best because of its positive drive when installing and the smaller head does not protrude into the junction box.

This might be a consideration when choosing the most appropriate fastener. When installing a concrete screw it is very important to use the correct bit size because the hole size and screw size tolerance are critical. This provides space for materials to go during the installation process.

Concrete screws are available in stainless steel that can be used in environments where corrosion is a concern. The wedge anchor can only be used to fasten a junction box to concrete.

The longer wedge anchors can be used for thinner material. Embedding into the concrete requires more drilling, but the holding value increases as the wedge anchor is embedded more deeply into the concrete.

Schema fermo ai blocchi di partenza

A drawback to using the wedge anchor for fastening a junction box to concrete is that after the wedge anchor is set, the stud and nut may stick out into the box and decrease valuable space as well as become a snag point for the wiring.

Keep in mind that the wedge anchor is designed for use in concrete only, which means that it is not as versatile as some of the other concrete fasteners, such as the Tapcon concrete screw or sleeve anchor. Sleeve anchors are very versatile for fastening junction boxes to concrete, brick or block and is used by many electrical contractors for this application.

The design of the sleeve anchor makes it well-suited for most base materials, especially for material that is suspect for its ability to be attached to. There are two available head styles for sleeve anchors: acorn nut and round head. The acorn nut is a smaller beveled nut that allows for a lower profile and eliminates an edge for wires to be snagged on.

The round head slotted is the most popular because the head has a very low profile and has minimal protrusion into the junction box. Hammer drive anchors are well-suited for fastening junction boxes to solid concrete when a permanent attachment is required.Log in or Sign up. Is there a way to flush mount a box in an exterior brick wall for an outlet?

I know there are masonry boxes but I honestly don't know how they mount in new construction, much less old work. This will be under a porch roof. TJanakJan 29, Joined: Apr 2, New construction, use a half brick or cut a brick to the size you need. Mortar in the electrical box and wire along with the bricks.

This would be so you could "squish" mortar in around the sides of the electrical box to hold it in place.

Drill Into Brick or the Mortar? - GardenFork

Then I would use a "masonry blade" on a circular saw to make the first cuts. This would give you smooth lines on the edges. Carefully and just barely saw into the wall so the cuts do not go beyond the rectangular lines drawn on the wall.

These cuts would not go very deep of course. Then with masonry drill bits and a hammer drill, I would drill a bunch of holes on the inside of the lines drawn. This would allow room in the back for a romex clamp, the wire, and mortar.

And drill no deeper than the tape on the bit. Then I would use a straight blade on the hammer drill to chip out the rest of the rectangular hole. Or a cold chisel. The more holes you drill, the easier it will be to chip the pieces out. Then drill a hole all the way through for the wire or whatever - run the wire.

Then install romex clamp. Leave about 8 inches of wire going out the electrical box. Then mortar it into place.

mounting electrical box to brick wall

Someone else may have a better way to do this, so stay tuned Circular saw masonry blade Last edited: Jan 30, The smaller the blade diameter, the deeper you can cut into the brick without going outside the lines for the box. Just finished this myself using a masonry bit and cold chisel as Billy Bob suggested. Probably took a bit longer than the other methods described here, but the end result is the same.

Thanks for the suggestions. I need to pick up a masonry box tomorrow and get to work. There is an outlet on the other side of the wall about a foot higher but right in line so running the wire should be easy.

TJanakJan 30, If that is in a wet area, you will be plugging in an extension cord which will go into a wet area, or you have animals in the area dog which might chew on an electric cord, be sure to install a GFCI outlet.There are different types of mounting boxes available - plastic surface mounting boxes, inset flush mount metal boxes and there are also pattresses for converting single inset mounting boxes to double or treble surface mounting boxes.

mounting electrical box to brick wall

You will require a plastic surface mount box in order to surface mount a socket. If the mounting box is to go into a cavity wall then a shallow mounting box 25mm deep should be to prevent knocking through to the cavity. On Masonry Hold the surface mount box on the wall at the position you would like it and ensure that it is horizontal using a spirit level.

When it is horizontal mark the fixing holes and remove the box. Next drill where you marked the fixing holes and place wall plugs in the holes. On the mounting box decide where the cable shall enter the box and use pliers to break out the plastic entryway. Now pass the cable through the hole and align the mounting box up to the fixing hole you have drilled. Use countersunk screws to fix the mounting box to the wall.

Before they have been fully tightened, use the spirit level to finally level off the mounting box. Fixing a surface mount box to a plasterboard wall can be done in a similar way to masonry except that different wall plugs are used, i. It is best when placing the mounting box on the plasterboard wall to align it so that the fixing screws go into the wooden frame behind the plasterboard.

Cooking quiz printable

If you decide to do this it is important to check that it is possible to feed in the cable from behind if required. Place the metal mounting box against the wall at the desired location and draw round it with a pencil. Mark a path from the location of the mounting box for the cable to reach it, e. Remove the plaster from within the marked area by first scoring the pencil line you have drawn and then using a masonry chisel and hammer.

Once the brick is exposed where the mounting box is to go, some of the brick will have to be removed. To do this fit a drill with a masonry bit and mark the depth of the mounting box on the bit. Next drill into the brick in a grid pattern as shown here:. Finally use a masonry chisel and hammer to cut away the remainder of the depth required for the mounting box.

Make sure the box fits and then mark and drill holes to attach the mounting box to the brick behind. Use wall plugs in the drilled holes to secure the box.Jagg Xaxx has been writing since His primary areas of writing include surrealism, Buddhist iconography and environmental issues. Xaxx worked as a cabinetmaker for 12 years, as well as building and renovating several houses.

At the time that many brick buildings were built, their interiors were covered with lath and plaster because brick wasn't considered attractive or fashionable. Since that time, the interior walls of many houses, apartments and lofts have been stripped back to reveal bare brick.

You may want the convenience of an electrical outlet in the middle of your bare brick wall.

How to Install an Electrical Box in a Brick Wall

Mark out the location of your planned electrical box on the surface of the brick wall with a marker or a pencil. Break out the brick along the outline that you made using a cold chisel and a hammer. Bring the wire to this location either by drilling up from underneath the floor, inserting the wire from the other side of the wall or running a metal conduit along the surface of the wall.

Insert the electrical box and pull the wire out through it. Secure the box to the brick using a hammer drill and concrete screws. Attach the bare wire to the green screw on the bottom of the outlet, the white wire to the silver screw on the side of the outlet and the black wire to the gold screw on the side of the outlet.

Press the electrical outlet into the box and secure it by screwing it in. Place the plate over the surface of the outlet and box and screw it on. Pin Share Tweet Share Email. Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. Show Comments.A receptacle can be set into a wall or mounted flush on the surface. Although surface-mounted receptacles are easy to install, setting a receptacle into the wall is the better solution for ensuring its safety and longevity.

Burying the majority of the receptacle within the wall protects it from knocks and spillages and keeps the wiring safely out of reach. Recessing a receptacle in a brick wall is a straightforward job requiring no previous experience, just attention to detail and a methodical approach.

Hold a builder's level horizontally against the wall and rest the receptacle wall box on the top edge of the level.

Lappas perth

Adjust the level until it is perfectly horizontal, then move the box along the level until it is in the desired position and press it firmly against the wall. Draw around the box, onto the wall, with a sharp pencil.

Place a dust sheet on the floor below the marked position of the wall box. Ensure that it covers the floor and any furniture likely to be hit by, or covered in, brick debris and dust.

New exterior receptacle in old brick wall

Don safety gloves and goggles. Carefully chisel around the lines you drew and into the plaster surface of the wall, using a sharp masonry chisel and a club hammer. Angle the chisel so it slants slightly into the middle of the drawn box, with the flat side of the chisel blade on the underside.

Work all the way around the box shape, staying just inside the lines. When finished, the drawn lines should be replaced by a chiseled line. Remove the plaster in the center of the drawn box using the chisel to cut from the edges toward the center. Don't worry about going deep; just remove any plaster covering the bricks. Clean away any remaining plaster debris and leave the brickwork clearly exposed.

Hold the wall box against the cut opening to check that it fits within the opening. If the cut area is too small, enlarge it slightly so the box fits snugly, then remove the box and place it somewhere safe.

Cut into the brickwork, using the chisel and hammer, starting in the center of the box area and working slowly toward the edges. Cut to a uniform depth, regularly fitting the box into the hole to ensure that you cut it to the right height and width. Feed the relevant power cable into the back of the hole in the brickwork. Pull enough of the cable through so that about 6 inches of cable hangs out of the front of the hole. Remove the appropriate press-out plug from the rear of the wall box, and feed the box onto the exposed end of the cable.

Press the wall box firmly into the hole, wriggling it slightly to allow surplus mortar to escape around the edges. When the box is flush with the wall surface, stop pressing and gently adjust it so the top and bottom edges are horizontal. Scrape excess mortar off the wall and clean the area with a moist sponge. Leave the mortar to dry before proceeding. Connect the cable to the terminals on the receptacle face plate, then screw the faceplate onto the wall box, using the screws provided.

mounting electrical box to brick wall

David Robinson has written professionally since He has written for the "Telegraph" and "Guardian" newspapers in the U. He holds an honors Bachelor of Arts in geography and education and a teaching certificate from Durham University, England.

thoughts on “Mounting electrical box to brick wall

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *